The Charm of “Fat Spaghetti”
When traveling through southern Tuscany, sooner or later you will find yourself served a steaming plate of pici—a rustic pasta that might look like “fat spaghetti” but has a story and flavor all its own. Depending on the town, you may also hear it called ombrichelli or even chiusoni. Whatever the name, it remains one of the region’s most traditional—and most delicious—dishes.
What makes pici special is its remarkable simplicity. The pasta is made with only three ingredients: flour, water, and a touch of salt. Some variations add a splash of extra virgin olive oil, but that is all. No eggs, no complicated techniques—just the essentials of Tuscan country cooking.
Ancient Roots and “Cucina Povera”
Like many culinary treasures of Tuscany, pici pasta has very humble beginnings. It is considered part of cucina povera, or “poor kitchen,” the style of cooking that grew out of rural life, where families had to create satisfying meals from the simplest and most affordable ingredients.
Remarkably, food historians trace the origins of pici all the way back to the Etruscans, the ancient civilization that inhabited central Italy long before the Romans. Wall paintings from their tombs show scenes of banquets where a dish resembling pici was served. It is fascinating to think that this same pasta has been hand-rolled and enjoyed for more than two thousand years!
Traditionally, pici were eaten with just garlic, olive oil, and breadcrumbs—a dish called pici con le briciole. Today, you’ll also find them paired with hearty tomato sauces, rich ragù, or even wild boar. Thanks to their slightly rough, uneven texture, pici strands cling beautifully to whatever sauce you choose.
A Recipe from Manciano: Chiusoni
To truly understand pici, there is no better way than to make it yourself. One of my favorite recipes comes from Gian Paolo and Barbara, owners of La Filanda in Manciano. Not only is their restaurant a wonderful place to enjoy dinner, but they also offer hands-on cooking classes that bring Tuscan traditions to life.
Barbara calls her version chiusoni, and the process is both simple and rewarding.
Ingredients:
- 250 grams wheat flour
- 250 grams white flour
- Tepid water
- A splash of extra virgin olive oil
- A pinch of salt
Method:
- On a floured surface, make a well in the center of the flour.
- Slowly add the water, mixing with your hands until a dough forms. The amount of water may vary depending on humidity.
- Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic, then let it rest for about 10 minutes.
- Roll the dough into long rods, flatten slightly, and cut into strips about 1 cm wide.
- With your hands, roll each strip into a long noodle about the size of a pencil. Don’t worry if they aren’t perfectly uniform—the beauty of pici lies in its rustic, handmade appearance.
- Lay the pasta on a tray dusted with flour (be generous), and either cook immediately or freeze for future use.
When ready to cook, drop the pici into boiling salted water. As soon as they rise to the surface, they are ready to serve. Toss with your favorite sauce, and you will have a dish that connects you directly with Tuscan history.
Why Pici Captures the Spirit of Tuscany
Pici represents more than just a pasta dish—it is a reflection of the Tuscan way of life. From the hands that roll it to the family tables where it is shared, it carries forward centuries of tradition rooted in simplicity, creativity, and community.
Next time you are in Tuscany, keep an eye out for pici on the menu. Better yet, join a cooking class and learn to roll it yourself. It’s an experience that will stay with you long after the last bite.
🔑 Article highlights:
- Pici pasta Tuscany
- Traditional Tuscan pasta
- Cucina povera Tuscany
- Handmade pasta Italy
- Tuscan cooking classes
- Etruscan food traditions
