Florence’s Historic Outdoor Escape
A Cool Step Back in Time
Summertime in Florence can be warm—let’s be honest, very warm—but that doesn’t mean you have to retreat indoors. One of my favorite ways to escape the heat and enjoy a peaceful walk is by heading into the Boboli Gardens.
This is not your typical English garden, overflowing with bright blossoms and wild hedges. No, Boboli is something else entirely: it’s nature under command, a grand expression of the Renaissance desire to organize, shape, and elevate the natural world into art.
Laid out in the 16th century by Niccolò Pericoli—better known as “Il Tribolo”—for the powerful Medici family, Boboli remains an extraordinary example of a formal Italian garden. It is green rather than floral, structured rather than whimsical, and sculpted rather than wild. But make no mistake: it is also magical.
Art, Nature, and Shade
Despite centuries of change, both natural and man-made, Boboli has kept its elegant soul. Sculptures stand proudly throughout the space, peeking out from behind pruned hedges or standing guard beside a trickling fountain. Wide gravel paths wind through towering trees, inviting visitors to explore the garden’s quiet corners.
There is an entrance fee, and picnicking isn’t encouraged, but if you plan your visit well—preferably in the morning or late afternoon—you’ll be rewarded with a calm, shaded oasis full of artistic and historical treasures. The gardens are open daily from 8:15 a.m., with closing times changing by season—ranging from 4:30 p.m. in winter to 6:30 or 7:10 p.m. in summer. Last entry is one hour before closing. They’re closed on the first and last Monday of each month.
Your Boboli Gardens ticket also includes access to the Bardini Gardens and the Museum of Porcelain, which is perched at one of the highest points of the gardens and offers a peaceful spot with panoramic views.
The Secret Path to the Mostaccini
One of my favorite sections of the garden lies beyond the grand central axis, down a lane once used for elaborate bird hunts.
This cypress-lined walkway, flanked by holm-oak-covered passages, was designed for shade. It leads to what was once known as la ragnaia—literally, “the spiderweb,” where nets were strung to catch birds. The Medici and their guests would gather here, perhaps in silence, perhaps in whispered excitement, waiting for their prey.
At the far end, you’ll find the Fountain of the Mostaccini, decorated with distorted, moustachioed stone faces that seem to sneer or grimace at the past. In its heyday, water would have trickled down this stone cascade, forming a trough that birds couldn’t resist—thus becoming part of a courtly hunting game.
Island Pond: An Oasis Within an Oasis
Keep walking, and you’ll arrive at one of the most iconic sights in Boboli: the Island Pond, or Vasca dell’Isola.
Surrounded by more holm oaks and protected by two grand marble gates adorned with capricorns (the personal emblem of Cosimo I de’ Medici), the pond centers on a small island with a majestic statue of Ocean. The entire space was conceived as a celebration of rustic elegance, dotted with 17th-century statues of peasants and hunters.
And then—there are the citrus trees.
You’ll see potted lemon and orange trees clustered around Ocean’s pedestal. These weren’t just ornamental. In the Renaissance, citrus was exotic, delicate, and very expensive. Because they couldn’t survive Tuscany’s winters, the Medicis built special “limonaie” (lemon houses) to protect them. It’s another reminder of how power, nature, and beauty intersected in every corner of this garden.
The Boboli and the Pitti Palace: A Perfect Pair
Many visitors don’t realize that the Boboli Gardens are directly connected to the Palazzo Pitti, the vast Renaissance palace that became the Medici family’s main residence.
If you have time (and I highly recommend you make it), a combined visit to the palace and gardens gives you a fuller understanding of how the Medici lived—surrounded by art, nature, power, and opulence. The palace houses multiple museums today, including the Palatine Gallery, rich with works by Raphael, Titian, and Rubens, and the Royal Apartments, furnished in 19th-century style.
You can purchase a combined ticket that includes entrance to both the palace museums and the gardens—ideal for those planning a full morning or afternoon exploring Florence’s Oltrarno district.
Practical Information
- Address: Piazza Pitti 1, Florence, Italy (Entry through the courtyard of Palazzo Pitti or from Porta Romana)
- Entry: Standard ticket includes access to Boboli Gardens, the Bardini Gardens, and the Porcelain Museum. Combined tickets with Palazzo Pitti (including the Palatine Gallery and Royal Apartments) are also available and recommended for a full Medici experience. Tickets can be purchased online in advance or on-site at the Pitti Palace ticket office.
- Tip from Elizabeth: Visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the strongest heat—and the largest crowds. Wear comfortable shoes (paths are gravel and sometimes uneven), bring a hat and water bottle, and don’t miss the views from the Porcelain Museum terrace!
